"I could see into the kitchen, where militant staff stood behind large, fire-scorched clay vessels filled with rice, stirring"
"Virgilio quite literally cooks Peru. He does not import or imitate. He creates"
"I suppose there is the coca plant, its leaves stripped to produce cocaine, but even coke is mixed with corn-starch these days, or so I am told"
"African cooking and African cuisine is… well, it’s nothing. It doesn’t exist."
"Brexit stopped any dreamy fantasy of setting up a life there. And don’t get me started on that"
"This place might have a past in pints and pickles, but the restaurant knows precisely what it wants to be today. There’s no flirting with pub snacks here"
"I'm reluctant to even tell you about Grič, wanting to keep this precious gem a secret all for myself"
"High-rise dining and bottomless brunches come at a premium. Sandy salads, too"
"There's no menu or catalogue of ingredients, and deliberately so. Merlin decided last year to forgo such a structure"
"Three nationalities, all famished, feigning amiable smiles while waiting, praying, dying for food to arrive"
