George Reynolds on Diana Henry's How To Eat a Peach
"It’s almost wakame-like. Am I that pretentious? Can I help it that I’ve put everything in the world in my mouth already? But I think they’ve ceviche-d this, or something. It’s got a citrusy thing"
"It is clear much more thought has gone into how it looks than how it eats"
"A Star Trek-style sliding door reveals a hallway, at the end of which is a lightless lift. I enter and wait to ascend (or descend, it's not clear which), then a ceiling light blasts on and music begins... "
"These small pleasures have arrived: brightly coloured novelty shapes for millennials"
"It’s 8PM on a Friday night at Hakkasan Mayfair and a urinal is leaking piss"
"Then bread arrives. Outlandish and spectacular bread. In shapes and colours I don't recognise …"
"One recurrent comment has been: 'Truffle and fontina pizza for £29!? WTF!??'"
"When I go to the toilet, I happen upon a waitress spraying copious amounts of stain remover upon the man whose chinos she has spilled food all down"