"Dinner starts proper with the world's oddest signature dish …"
"There's a shimmer in the wallpaper that speaks of a more familiar, outré Soho, than secret wartime plotting"
"Unrivalled as a host, her death a week afterwards was unreasonably and irrationally upsetting to me: I’d only known her for a few hours"
"I started as I would continue: perched on a tiny plastic chair at 7am." Neil D.A. Stewart eats his way from Hanoi to Saigon, but skips the dog
"The whole fried fish at Nahm is delicious, but it’s not as impactful as eating a whole fish at a beachside restaurant, sand between your toes, flesh and crispy skin and garlic-chilli-lime nahm jim between your fingers"
"It’s one that raises the seat for you as you approach, lest you find touching a toilet seat a kind of degeneracy"
"They knew the farmer's name, the strain of tomato used in the gazpacho, the fresh herbs used in that morning's Italian crispbread"
"I’m sure vegetables aren’t dead so oysters are not for vegans"
Mil is Peruvian wunderkind Virgilio Martínez’s high-wire, high-altitude new endeavour
David J Constable on chef Mehmet Gürs and a restaurant with a unique perspective