Gaggan in Bangkok made it to number seven in The World's 50 Best Restaurants list 2017. So why is it closing?
"According to the preternaturally handsome maitre'd it was all his own choice. Hmmm, I demurred …"
"It’s a doozy, a murder by a million cuts so subtle that on first reading you can’t quite understand how a restaurant came to be lying in front of you in a puddle of its own viscera, twitching its last"
"An insipid carrot sorbet with rhubarb, olive oil and bergamot is a timely cooling aid, but there's rarely ever much to be enjoyed from a carrot"
Red meat may now be as bad for us as it is for the planet, but temptation for the carnivore is anything but rare. Derek Guthrie chews the fat
"If there is a bill of fare more precisely calibrated to give a male late millennial food dork an overwhelming case of the FOMOs, I can’t imagine it"
"The staff are dressed in a style best described as Murder Circus: equal parts waistcoats and straightjackets"
"Her family's culinary history is so intense there’s demi-glace coursing through her veins"
"It’s not food that’s the star here. So here’s the hook, the catch, the crook of it all..."