Larry Leight, Oliver Peoples, L.A.
I haven’t lost anyone to surfing, but I have had some terrifying experiences myself. I remember a time in Hawaii when the surf was so big I had to keep paddling out to sea, to get over the sets of waves. It was getting dark, and the waves never stopped coming, and they were growing in size from five to 15 feet. I couldn’t paddle to shore, so I spent what felt like forever – but was probably half an hour – paddling for my life just to get out past the waves. I barely made it over some of them by the skin of my teeth. Finally a helicopter rescued me, along with a few others.
I grew up surfing. I’ve lived in Southern California my whole life and it’s a huge part of the culture here. There is nothing like the freedom that I feel when I am out in the ocean and experiencing nature. It is inspiring and relaxing. My favourite places to surf are tropical, warm places, like Hawaii and Costa Rica.
One of the most amazing experiences of my life was my first time surfing in Hawaii – it was 1970 and I was in Maui on Honalua Bay. I’ll never forget it. There have been many other magical moments for me at Witches Rock and Ollies Point in Costa Rica, Hanalei Bay in Kauai and Rincon, California. Taking my daughters out on the ocean and watching them enjoy it as much as I do has been pretty amazing.
Larry Leight in Costa Rica
Being out there in the ocean is such a euphoric feeling, and quite “zen”. The vast space and the movement of the water have an incredible calming effect unmatched by anything. I find it so peaceful and serene, and the energy fuels my soul. It can be a spiritual experience. I consider the ocean to be my sanctuary.
I grew up on the west side of L.A., which is a very relaxed and down to earth area, where I was surrounded by surf, skate, and beach culture. The Beach Boys and other surf music and surf films definitely influenced me: The Endless Summer, Bruce Brown, Gerry Lopez, and other Hawaiians. I was also inspired by the Aussies when they first competed in Hawaii in 1974. All my friends in Santa Monica were the boys of Dogtown. I liked to skate, but was always drawn way more to the waves.
I started going to the beach to body surf and belly board, or boogie board, at age 14. It was mostly in Santa Monica where I grew up and sometimes we ventured over to the Wedge in Newport. After some time I decided to try surfing and started on long heavy boards with no leashes. I really loved it and started going every weekend. Once I got my driver’s license, I started surfing the California coast, everywhere from Santa Cruz to San Diego. I loved the whole vibe, the camping and the culture… I loved the surprise of not knowing how good it might be. I was never was scared back then. I never competed, I just free surfed with friends. When I went to Hawaii for the first time at age 19, it changed my life. I ended up living there for a while.
Southern California has a very active lifestyle, an eclectic mix of everything from high fashion and movies to surfing and hanging at the beach. Californians have a certain relaxed air about them that’s unique to this state; I think mostly because people grow up here seeing the ocean and experiencing its serenity first hand. The weather is unbeatable in California, making the culture much more laid back. The relaxed, casual attitude is engrained in the way people live.
There is an excitement when you know you are going to have a day of surfing, waking up super early and driving out – being a little nervous if the waves are going to be as good as predicted. Once I’m on the sand and it’s warm under my feet a sense of happiness comes over me. When I’m finally paddling out on my board, I like to take a minute to just sit in the water and enjoy that sense of freedom. My mind is constantly moving during the day – with work, my family, and life in general – so when I am out in the water and there is nothing around me for miles, my mind is at ease. Throughout the day there’ll be feelings of joy and accomplishment or frustration, but every day I can spend on the water is one I feel blessed to have. When I’m packing up to go home I’m usually exhausted because no matter how much you work out or how good a shape you think you are in, the muscles you use on your board are different than anywhere else. C