Why I love Kyoto, by Ignatius “Iggy” Chan

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Ignatius “Iggy” Chan is the man behind the eponymous Iggy’s in Singapore – quite simply Civilian’s favourite restaurant in the city. Iggy’s moved from its tiny corner room at the fabulously 1970s Regent Hotel in 2010 to The Hilton Hotel, doubling in size. The menu at Iggy’s embraces elements of the Asian avant garde, mixed with European fine dining. You should go. You’ll love it. You really will

Ignatius Chan at Iggy's, Singapore

Ignatius Chan at Iggy’s, Singapore

My wife Janice and I first visited Kyoto in 2002 and it was such a captivating experience that it’s become a bi-annual affair since then. I could absolutely live in Kyoto. Kyoto has the quirkiness of Tokyo yet without the massive crowds of people, skyscrapers and the crazy traffic. I’ve never brought back a souvenir as such, but I could well buy property there in the not too distant future.

We love the balance of the old juxtaposed with the new and trendy in the ancient capital of Japan. It’s the culture, the tranquillity, the rich heritage and history, the food scene, fashion, artisanal shops, interesting bars and night life, great agricultural produce, the landscape and its natural scenic beauty. I particularly like Shijo-dori, the Gion District and Arashiyama.

There are two restaurants that I’ve had particularly memorable meals at. One is Roan Kikunoi, which is a kaiseki restaurant that now has two Michelin stars, and the other is Il Ghiottone, which is an Italian-Japanese restaurant. In fact, Chef Sasajima of Il Ghiottone and his team have become great friends with us.  They’ve cooked at Iggy’s on four occasions now. Roan Kikunoi is classic Kyoto kaiseki. It’s always perfectly executed, using the choicest seasonal local ingredients. The style of the food is evocative and fun.

Il Ghiottone has a unique expression of Italian cuisine from a Kyoto chef’s perspective. I like the hearty and inventive use of local ingredients, always perfectly executed and Chef Sasajima’s pasta is to die for. Some of my favourite pasta uses unique Japanese delicacies such as shirako (fish milt), and matsutake (a kind of wild pine mushroom from Kyoto).

Kyoto has a unique blend of modernity, ancient charm, quirky bars, charming café and great restaurants. Nishiki market – the kitchen of Kyoto– is a superb food market.

You often encounter picturesque scenes of ladies in traditional kimonos going about their daily life, but there’s still a very cosmopolitan feel because of the concentration of tourist from all over the world descending into this part of Kyoto. For me, the images that are most synonymous with Kyoto are the geisha and maiko in colourful kimonos and painted faces. Their grace and elegance are spellbinding if you’ve had the fortune to meet them in person. C

 

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Ignatius Chan of Iggy’s in Singapore and National Chef of the Year Alyn Williams will combine their dishes to create a one-of-a-kind tasting menu as part of CHEFstock 2013, at Alyn Williams at the Westbury in London on 24th September 2013. Tickets are £180 including food, wine and Pol Roger Vintage 2004. Bookings: 020-7183 6426; alynwilliams@westburymayfair.com; alynwilliams.com