Recipes, reviews, farms and tables
Columbus Circle or Madison? Neil Stewart reviews both A Voces, Marlon Abela's celebrated, super smart New York Italian restaurants
"To stand in a cheesemakers and eat fresh burrata with a spoon in Matera, or Giola del Colle, or Modugno, or Martina Franca south of Bari, is the closest I'll ever get to sex with Sophia Loren"
"Verden has aesthetics to burn. And, crucially, it doesn’t look like absolutely everywhere else – there’s no mismatched charity shop plates and cutlery"
"You 'Mmm' loudly in the hope that no one else can hear the sound of your heart breaking, and slice the pasta into shards praying there are Super Noodles in the cupboard for later"
“It’s a feminised version of the Minetta Tavern." From the ashes of a very rare Keith McNally failure rises a mighty new dining room on the Bowery
Fine dining goes commando: Simon Rogan's return to London looks very different from his Cartmel operations. But, as Neil Stewart discovers, the taste of Fera is still very familiar. And there are still no tablecloths
"Traditional, solid, and divided into little serving rooms where the staff will drop the odd bon mot while sweeping the crumbs off the tablecloth. Smart dress preferred. Your mum would like it"
Alex Kammerling ponders the return of the Great British aperitif
"Inside, you heave aside a heavy curtain and look on to a wedge-shaped space so filled with noise you can almost see it"
Brushing up her cooking skills with legendary chef Michel Guérard, Jennifer Sharp finds a philosopher and life coach in the kitchen
