Possibly America’s finest diner

We believe that the diner is one of America’s greatest contributions to global design culture. Along with the space-race motel sign, it speaks volumes about a nation that moves by road rather than rail – speeding across State lines in implausibly high 4x4s that have taken the place of the elegant chrome flash of the tailfinned cars of the 1950s. The diner, like the motel, is designed to draw in the weary traveller, with a giant sign by the side of the road, and an elongated single-storey silhouette. At night, it’s pure Edward Hopper territory.

Phoenicia Diner is a revamped 1960s, rather than 1950s, diner – less American Graffiti, more Wes Anderson. It’s also a paradigm of the style revolution taking place in the Catskills right now. An Ace Hotel offshoot is rumored to be coming to the mountains, while The Graham & Co – a stark, urban and devilishly handsome take on the traditional motel – has already landed, a short walk from Phoenicia Diner. Meanwhile, the antique stores around the Hudson are full of Bushwick and Bed Stuy locals who have bought nearby holiday properties to remodel, and local farmers’ markets are thriving.

The owner of Phoenicia Diner, Mike Cioffi, has masterminded a respectful refresh and makeunder of the original 1962 building, and operates a menu that does away with anything that might involve frozen ingredients. Instead, just about everything is locally sourced – from the baked goods from Bread Alone, to the trout that was, until it became breakfast, jumping in the local river.

The look is bright and sleek, with venetian blinds on the windows casting just the right cinematic ambience across the all-booth space (we LOVE a booth!), green leatherette chrome finished stools and seats and the perfect rounded counter that runs the whole length of the room. You won’t need to buy a souvenir – the giant paper menu that serves as a placemat is so beautifully designed that you won’t be able to help swiping it.

This is clearly a 2010s update, so why not acknowledge it?

There are flaws. It’s open Thursday to Sunday – heartbreaking if you’re passing on a Tuesday and can feast only with your eyes from outside the locked doors. And it closes at 5pm. A shame, as we’d quite happily eat three meals there a day. Also, we’d swap the 1960s-only music policy for something contemporary; this is clearly a 2010s update, so why not acknowledge it? Likewise – black drip coffee is the devil’s own work; we wish they’d bring in some Intelligentsia or Stumptown instead. But as it is, there’s so much to recommend and love.

Phoenicia Diner manages to stay just the right distance away from kitsch and irony.  If you find yourself on Route 28 when it’s open, pull over. You won’t regret it. It’s a living, inhabitable, work of pop art. C

Phoenicia Diner, 5681 New York 28, Phoenicia, NY 12464, USA
845 688 9957; Phoeniciadiner.com