Sleep disorder therapy | A thoroughly modern spa treatment

I’m not sure what to expect as my car makes the ascent through the gentle hills of the Alto Garda Natural Park to Lefay Resort & Spa. The property has been ingeniously crafted into the hillside to resemble the lemon houses typical of the area, surrounded by woodland and olive tree terraces. There are mesmerizing views of Lake Garda shimmering below. I make a mental note: at least I’ll have an exceptionally calm view to lull me through my wakeful hours during my first experience of sleep disorder therapy, at my first sleep resort.

It seems to be the lifestyle lament of the year to complain about poor sleep: Jemima Khan took to Twitter to complain about what she calls “insomnia insanity”, though is, in fact, more likely to be transient insomnia or semi-somnia.  Many sound sleepers scoff at what they consider a kind of self indulgence or preciousness, but for those of us – myself included – who suffer from periodic bouts of insomnia that chronically affect not only their work but their personal and family life, sleep disorder therapy represents potential salvation.

As I arrive at Lefay, I reflect wryly that the Leali family – who remain hands-on owners here – describe their ethos as “to create places of our dreams”. I wonder if there’ll there be chic Italians wandering around, rubbing their eyes blearily, or if I’ll be kept awake by everyone around me snoring on their designer recliners. I may find myself afraid to move in case I disturb and break the spell of some über industrialist who’s finally fallen into an exhausted, if unflattering, stupor…

I may find myself afraid to move in case I disturb and break the spell of some über industrialist who’s finally fallen into an exhausted, if unflattering, stupor…

What I am not expecting is to be ushered into a semi academic seminar on the patterns of sleep by Doctor Maurizio Corradin, President of the Lefay SPA Scientific Committee, moments after my arrival. It’s something of a rude awakening: this is sleep being taken extremely seriously, with a Classical Chinese Medicine perspective. We’re regaled with some interesting, if rather general advice concerning sleep disorder: it seems that if one wakes up at the same time every night, alteration of the energy circulation of the meridians is required, whereas waking up after a specific number of hours of sleep means an alteration of the energy nourishing the organs is what’s needed. Nightmares, meanwhile, point to blood deficiency. We are promised that the programme of energy and re-balancing massages will address the accumulation of too much energy in the upper body, specifically in the head area, moxibustion (wait and see, this is something different) and personalised herbal teas will stimulate and rebalance my energy lines to promote sleep. We’re advised that the doctor will see us for individual consultations. I change into a white robe and survey the 3,000 sq m spa hopefully.

I am somewhat surprised that Doctor Corradin puts an arm around me as he conveys me into his consulting room – although this is Italy and not the NHS, after all. It serves to heighten my emotional state and, I suspect, encourage frankness.  Whilst we discuss some of the issues that may be affecting my sleep, I am not given much opportunity to talk, and I sense that Corradin is slipping into an oft-rehearsed speech about how I should look at myself more positively. My sleep disorder therapy is to centre around how the heart takes charge, and controls the circulation of energy. Of course, I know already that I have issues with worries, tensions and regrets. Doctor Corradin suggests I need to build on what the Chinese call “zhi” – will and determination. As he puts it, I need to “become my own best friend.” I emerge tearful.

My spirits are much restored by a light and creative dinner in La Grande Limonaia, although I realize too late that I have probably drunk too much and no one, least of all me, has been monitoring this. I retire to my room, which is stunning, both in its vast proportions and moonlit view of the lake. The design cleverly allows me to even enjoy the lake view from the bath.

Frustratingly, I barely sleep a wink.

Still, the next morning the sun is shining, and reading on the vast balcony in the early hours beats the kitchen of my South West London home. I resolve, today, to make myself physically exhausted as well as pummelled and massaged into sleep submission. After an impressive breakfast (I especially like the huge choice of vegetables and fruit to press into my own healthy concoction), I am ready to take a walk in the Energy and Therapeutic Gardens. This is undoubtedly a highlight of my stay. The surroundings are stunning – not overly landscaped, and very much in keeping with the Leali family’s commitment to environmental sustainability.  I enjoy the gentle scramble up to a series of signposted meditation spots, from The Green Dragon in the heart of the forest to The Black Tortoise in a valley, featuring a rocky cave, small river and benches of bare rock.

I manage to work up quite an appetite for lunch in the Trattoria La Vigna. It is even better than the gourmet restaurant, with an abundant choice of definitive Italian charcuterie, cheeses including dreamy burrata and char-grilled vegetable salads.

The afternoon is devoted to making the most of the spa and my first Energy Sleep Massage. The highlight is the salt-water lake – a first for me in a spa: I descend into the pool, in its own hideaway room with “clouds” of salt and a moon sculpture, and find floating there to be one of the most relaxing experiences of the whole resort. I am sure I even dozed off momentarily, floating on my back.

After a slightly better night of sleep (yet still waking early enough to make the most of the tranquil views of the lake at sunrise), I partake in a wonderful Qi Gong session in a room directly overlooking the lake. There’s time to explore more of the spa – before an Energy Massage. Then, it is time for the mysterious moxibustion: a Chinese therapeutic technique, whose name derives from the Japanese term “moe kusa”, which means burning herb.  The treatment involves the application of heat to areas of skin near acupuncture points or energy pathways. If moxibustion sounds like someone stubbing out a cigarette all over your body, the sensation is actually very pleasant – and surprisingly relaxing too.

By day two, I’m keen to explore beyond Lefay Resort. There’s only so much spa I can take, elegantly indulgent though it is (it won Best Luxury Wellness Spa and Best Luxury Destination Spa for Italy at the 2013 World Luxury Spa Awards). To get a sense of the context of Lefay’s setting, I visit the one remaining original lemon house in downtown Gargano. Its custodian is delightful, and after explaining how lemons were traditionally grown within such houses with removable wooden roofs, he invites us to a tasting in his cosy, timbered home. The lemon mostarda is so exceptional that I have to buy several jars.

Later, after nightfall, I count the stars high above Lake Garda as I swim in the heated outdoor pool. It certainly beats counting sheep as a strategy for dealing with insomnia, and I sense myself drifting off. But, damn – I have to give myself a reality jolt. I’m dripping wet, not in bed and the outdoor saltwater pool at Lefay Resort closes at the strictly earthly early hour of 8pm. I try to focus on this dreamy sensation and hope to recall it later, between the sheets. Besides, dinner beckons and the food at Lefay is too delicious to miss, even though perversely I am probably feeling sleepier now than I’ve felt at any previous point during the sleep retreat.

A stay at Lefay is not intended as a mere quick fix. This kind of sleep disorder therapy is a starting point for reassessing sleep more seriously. Has it worked for me? To an extent. I’m more conscious of some of the triggers for my intermittent insomnia. I fully intend to have further acupuncture at a local Chinese medicine clinic and continue with Qi Dong/Tai Chi classes. Perhaps I’m the sort who simply and bizarrely doesn’t need so much sleep, despite Doctor Corradin’s advice that we should all aim to be eight hour a night, minimum, sleepers. Dream on, preferably deeply. C

 

Lefay Resort & Spa, Via Angelo Feltrinelli, 118, 25084 Gargnano Brescia, Italy
0365 241800; lefayresorts.com

Lefay Resort & Spa offer five day sleep programmes, including all treatements, meals and use of Lefay’s pools and saunas. Treatments include: Initial examination to determine energy levels; nutritional consultation and determination of diet; consultation with personal trainer; personalised phyto-aromatherapy (herbal tea); one Energy Facial; two Tui Na Massages; one Energy Body Massage; two individual acupuncture sessions; two individual foot reflexology treatments; three moxa treatments; two Energy Hydro-aromatherapy sessions with essential oils; one treatment in the salt water lake; one guided walk through the Energy Gardens; four activities for rebalancing physical energy – Qi Gong, Stretching Meridiens, Tai Qi, Yoga; final examination with check-up report and targeted recommendations for maintenance.

Sudi Pigott flew to Verona with British Airways. British Airways (0844 493 0787) flies twice a day from London, Gatwick to Verona.