Apero at The Ampersand Hotel, London
It’s a real indulgence to catch up properly on the weekend papers, cosying up in a bed that has been properly designed for reading: high-back velvet headboard, comfortably squashy rather than over-stuffed and braided cushions, and plenty of good, angled lighting, including Original BTC lamps. It’s even more of an indulgence to do it in a hotel – The Ampersand – just half an hour from my home.
Reading the review pages, I was amused to happen on a new novel – & Sons, by David Gilbert whose pivotal character is the fictional Pulitzer Prize Winner A.N. Dyer, author of a similarly fictional cult classic, Ampersand. Uncanny, and reason enough for me resolve to add the book to my reading list.
I appreciated the quirky and well thought out mini library in my suite (volumes included Plants That Changed the Course of History and What a Plant Knows), reflecting the botanical, Natural History Museum motifs of the room – a black and white photograph of a dandelion that I fancied purloining and some huge and stylish flower screenprints across one wall. If only I’d had more time, I would have browsed The Idle Traveller while reclining on the chaise longue.
There is an additional well-stocked library room at The Ampersand, conducive to browsing, as well as a games room with full-size ping pong table and plenty of board games. Both are sometimes used for private dining.
As a wordsmith with an interest in beautiful type, I like the use of the elegant “&” as part of the visual representation of the hotel’s name. (And The Ampersand Hotel is far better than the previous Grosvenor Kensington). That said, there is a somewhat over-played use of it in “Warm & Dry” (dressing gowns that could have been fluffier) and “Pimp & Preen” (cotton wool pads, too often a missing detail) et al in the small, yet elegantly fitted out bathroom, with Miller Harris unguents.
A Deluxe Studio at The Ampersand Hotel, London
Our room had a Victorian style cast iron free-standing bath in the window bay, perfectly appointed to lie back (bath pillow provided) and watch TV at the optimum angle should one be so disposed. (I never turn on the telly at a hotel, so I wouldn’t be.) My only real caveat about the room: I wish the hotel would add a “Calm & Quiet” box containing earplugs. I was amazed and dismayed that, three floors up, the rumble of Tube trains – very frequent Tube trains at that – in South Kensington station was so audible. Having once lived in a flat with similar proximity to a Tube station, I soon adjusted, but it would prove irritating and disturbing for some.
The Ampersand has been an independent hotel since 1888, so was built after the station first opened for the District and Circle lines in 1868, but maybe the disconcerting tremors only came with the arrival of the deep level Metropolitan or Piccadilly line in 1906.
There is an eclectic use of bold colours juxtaposed with calmer shades in the bedrooms and I liked the fabulous, somewhat louche black and white sofa in reception. The daring, vibrant clashing fabrics and whimsical furnishings in the drawing room are highly appealing. Pernickety matching and neatness doesn’t do it for me. Afternoon tea, drawing on the Asian heritage of the Nobu-trained Korean pastry chef Ji Sun Shin (who, in complete contrast to her role here, has a street stall selling bul-go-gi baguettes outside Arsenal each Saturday) is gorgeous, floral and exotic, both in taste and visual excitement.
I particularly like the way he presents exceptionally crisp, unusual and well-dressed salads such as kohlrabi, blood radish and apple or heritage beetroot. Truffle risotto is served thrillingly al dente
I’d visited Apero – resolutely not the archetypal London hotel restaurant – several times previously, and revelled in the zingy flavours and creative combinations of Chris Golding’s dishes, mixing Asian, Middle Eastern and Mediterranean elements, with an artful flow. I particularly like the way he presents exceptionally crisp, unusual and well-dressed salads such as kohlrabi, blood radish and apple or heritage beetroot. Truffle risotto is served thrillingly al dente, as only an Italian chef assisting in the kitchen would dare. Exceptional too was a delicate fillet of sea bass with a dreamy lardo and artichoke sauce, followed by duck breast with girolles and salsify. Both dishes showing a real lightness of touch and understanding of flavour. Desserts are special too, especially hot chocolate fondant made with Original Beans Porcelana Piura Criollo (which I introduced Chris and Ji Sun to), accompanied by honey ice cream and pine nut crackle and an apple dish with orange curd, almond crumble and whipped Greek yoghurt.
It was great to be able to order supper from Apero’s menu too, rather than the usual, dreary, room service club sandwich standards. Salt pollack brandade with a still runny poached egg and slivers of melba toast and a mixed salad made for a lovely, comforting yet still special low-key supper. Breakfasts, served in the vaulted, exposed brick cellar of Apero are extremely good. I had more girolles on toast, and house-made bircher muesli. Mirroring the whole Ampersand ambience, staff at Apero are cosmopolitan, informal, notably friendly and attentive, yet never intrusive. C
The Ampersand Hotel, 2 Harrington Road, London SW7 3ER
0207-589 5895; ampersandhotel.com
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