David J Constable on chef Mehmet Gürs and a restaurant with a unique perspective
"Things reached a head in 2011 after police murdered 16-year-old Diego Felipe Becerra while he tagged his signature, Felix the Cat, on the walls of an underpass"
"A Star Trek-style sliding door reveals a hallway, at the end of which is a lightless lift. I enter and wait to ascend (or descend, it's not clear which), then a ceiling light blasts on and music begins... "
"Then bread arrives. Outlandish and spectacular bread. In shapes and colours I don't recognise …"
Gaggan in Bangkok made it to number seven in The World's 50 Best Restaurants list 2017. So why is it closing?
"An insipid carrot sorbet with rhubarb, olive oil and bergamot is a timely cooling aid, but there's rarely ever much to be enjoyed from a carrot"
"It’s not food that’s the star here. So here’s the hook, the catch, the crook of it all..."
David J Constable explores the amazing, strange and controversial flavours and techniques of the macaron maestro
"It's earthy and rich, creamy from the pink beet hummus, and impossible to pickup"
"Here's the problem with champagne (I'm just going to come right out and say it): most of it isn't very good"