"A Star Trek-style sliding door reveals a hallway, at the end of which is a lightless lift. I enter and wait to ascend (or descend, it's not clear which), then a ceiling light blasts on and music begins... "
"Then bread arrives. Outlandish and spectacular bread. In shapes and colours I don't recognise …"
Gaggan in Bangkok made it to number seven in The World's 50 Best Restaurants list 2017. So why is it closing?
"An insipid carrot sorbet with rhubarb, olive oil and bergamot is a timely cooling aid, but there's rarely ever much to be enjoyed from a carrot"
"It’s not food that’s the star here. So here’s the hook, the catch, the crook of it all..."
David J Constable explores the amazing, strange and controversial flavours and techniques of the macaron maestro
"It's earthy and rich, creamy from the pink beet hummus, and impossible to pickup"
"Here's the problem with champagne (I'm just going to come right out and say it): most of it isn't very good"
"It's giving them acknowledgement of their culture, their traditions, their people, and their history"
Much-loved Mayfields has given way to newcomer Pidgin, on the fast developing coffee and dining strip of Wilton Way in London Fields. David J Constable counts himself as a Pidgin fancier