"Chefs all wear the preposterously tall toque blanche hat, but all of the pomp is lavishly lapped up"
"I’ve lived in Alba for over 15 years, and have found my happy place. I plant, I grow, I harvest, I cook"
"One question still vexes me, year in, year out. Where can I take my parents for dinner in London?"
"I want the person responsible for cooking my dinner to be a proper fatty, experienced in gluttony"
"You feel for the can’t-decide crowd who check the menu outside, assess the cheery downstairs room through the windows, and then are led upstairs"
"When told, drop everything and get the hell out, fast"
"A daily menu arrives and makes a point of the kitchen’s Canadian-ness – what the Dickens is that I hear you cry?"
"Dinner starts proper with the world's oddest signature dish …"
"There's a shimmer in the wallpaper that speaks of a more familiar, outré Soho, than secret wartime plotting"
"Unrivalled as a host, her death a week afterwards was unreasonably and irrationally upsetting to me: I’d only known her for a few hours"