David J Constable on chef Mehmet Gürs and a restaurant with a unique perspective
"I'm from Glasgow and my playmate is from Bradford so Punjabi food, and in his case Pakistani, are, er, meat and chapatis to us both"
George Reynolds on Diana Henry's How To Eat a Peach
"It’s almost wakame-like. Am I that pretentious? Can I help it that I’ve put everything in the world in my mouth already? But I think they’ve ceviche-d this, or something. It’s got a citrusy thing"
"It is clear much more thought has gone into how it looks than how it eats"
"A Star Trek-style sliding door reveals a hallway, at the end of which is a lightless lift. I enter and wait to ascend (or descend, it's not clear which), then a ceiling light blasts on and music begins... "
"These small pleasures have arrived: brightly coloured novelty shapes for millennials"
"It’s 8PM on a Friday night at Hakkasan Mayfair and a urinal is leaking piss"
"Then bread arrives. Outlandish and spectacular bread. In shapes and colours I don't recognise …"
"One recurrent comment has been: 'Truffle and fontina pizza for £29!? WTF!??'"