David J Constable

A Danish double | Koan and Kadeau, Copenhagen

"Korean food is having a moment. South, I mean. The North is, well, doing whatever it is the North does"

Cooking the mountain | Atelier Moessmer Norbert Niederkofler, Brunico

“I grew up without a supermarket on the corner. Despite this, there was always plenty of food on the table, even in winter. So I had to set up my own supermarket to see me through the lean months"

A fairytale castle with chef charming | Schloss Schauenstein, Fürstenau

by David J Constable

He’s just too sexy to be cooking. Too fanciable and beddable to be hidden in some dank corner kitchen. He has the swept-back, salt-spectacled hair of a Greek god and the neat, trimmed stubble of a high-class gigolo

Poor choice | Stark, Broadstairs

by David J Constable

"It’s all rather depressing, the despondent cries scratched into the bowl like some end-of-meal plea for help. Is the chef okay? Should I call the Samaritans or his sponsor? What’s happening? I don’t understand"

The proof in the puddings | CODA Dessert Dining, Berlin

by David J Constable

"CODA, however, isn’t a rejection of the pseudo snobbery of fine dining, but a diversion from the traditional, tiresome, rolled-out understanding of a savoury-sweet tasting menu."

Head of the table | The Chairman, Hong Kong

by David J Constable

"Chinese food in Britain was the first popular takeout. Although, these were mostly Cantonese dishes adapted to British tastes, a sort of Chinese-ish and cross-cultural melange"

Abou El Sid, Cairo

by David J Constable

"The Grand Marquis wine, though, was a disaster. A blend of Sultanine Blanche and Chardonnay, it might have just as well been camel piss and sand"

A zed, two noughts, and more | Zooba, Cairo

by David J Constable

"I discovered that koshari might have been invented by French settlers in the 19th century as a veggie dish called couches de riz. Other outlets even have the gall to blame the British"

David J Constable on Venissa, Venice

by David J Constable

"Venice is also a flirty temptress to the solo idler, the wandering daydreamer and the inquisitive traveller"

Casa Maria Luigia, Modena | Dear Jessica…

by David J Constable

"I can’t think of anything more personal and amorous than being cooked breakfast by someone in the Italian countryside; being poured steaming coffee from the mocha pot as plates of smoked cotechino sausage with zabaione and freshly-baked cookies arrive"

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