"Back then, it was a riotous and unlawful place, a lethal cocktail of soldiers, sailors, whores and booze"
"How best to define this restaurant? Don’t bother"
"For such a new and advanced city, Dubai’s culinary offering remains sluggish; a decade-or more behind others. It’s skyscraper dining, bottomless brunches and sushi by the pool"
"This is a region that prides itself on this unique breed of cow, renowned for their muscular hypertrophy, commonly known as double muscling"
"Not another contemporary twist promise, another twiddly-accented, jus-dribbling, foam-flicking chef"
"Chefs all wear the preposterously tall toque blanche hat, but all of the pomp is lavishly lapped up"
"I’ve lived in Alba for over 15 years, and have found my happy place. I plant, I grow, I harvest, I cook"
"I want the person responsible for cooking my dinner to be a proper fatty, experienced in gluttony"
"A daily menu arrives and makes a point of the kitchen’s Canadian-ness – what the Dickens is that I hear you cry?"
David J Constable on chef Mehmet Gürs and a restaurant with a unique perspective
