FOOD+DRINK

Recipes, reviews, farms and tables

Cooking the mountain | Atelier Moessmer Norbert Niederkofler, Brunico

Cooking the mountain | Atelier Moessmer Norbert Niederkofler, Brunico

by David J Constable

“I grew up without a supermarket on the corner. Despite this, there was always plenty of food on the table, even in winter. So I had to set up my own supermarket to see me through the lean months"

Poor choice | Stark, Broadstairs

Poor choice | Stark, Broadstairs

by David J Constable

"It’s all rather depressing, the despondent cries scratched into the bowl like some end-of-meal plea for help. Is the chef okay? Should I call the Samaritans or his sponsor? What’s happening? I don’t understand"

The proof in the puddings | CODA Dessert Dining, Berlin

The proof in the puddings | CODA Dessert Dining, Berlin

by David J Constable

"CODA, however, isn’t a rejection of the pseudo snobbery of fine dining, but a diversion from the traditional, tiresome, rolled-out understanding of a savoury-sweet tasting menu."

Effervesce sense | Karen Krizanovich on midsummer sparklers

Effervesce sense | Karen Krizanovich on midsummer sparklers

by Karen Krizanovich

"While I prefer sparkling - as PeeWee Herman once said, “All my friends have big buts" - The Grange’s Still Pink 2022 is my big but"

Head of the table | The Chairman, Hong Kong

Head of the table | The Chairman, Hong Kong

by David J Constable

"Chinese food in Britain was the first popular takeout. Although, these were mostly Cantonese dishes adapted to British tastes, a sort of Chinese-ish and cross-cultural melange"

Abou El Sid, Cairo

Abou El Sid, Cairo

by David J Constable

"The Grand Marquis wine, though, was a disaster. A blend of Sultanine Blanche and Chardonnay, it might have just as well been camel piss and sand"

A zed, two noughts, and more | Zooba, Cairo

A zed, two noughts, and more | Zooba, Cairo

by David J Constable

"I discovered that koshari might have been invented by French settlers in the 19th century as a veggie dish called couches de riz. Other outlets even have the gall to blame the British"

David J Constable on Venissa, Venice

David J Constable on Venissa, Venice

by David J Constable

"Venice is also a flirty temptress to the solo idler, the wandering daydreamer and the inquisitive traveller"

Casa Maria Luigia, Modena | Dear Jessica…

Casa Maria Luigia, Modena | Dear Jessica…

by David J Constable

"I can’t think of anything more personal and amorous than being cooked breakfast by someone in the Italian countryside; being poured steaming coffee from the mocha pot as plates of smoked cotechino sausage with zabaione and freshly-baked cookies arrive"

My father, Marilyn Monroe and Dom Perignon

My father, Marilyn Monroe and Dom Perignon

by Karen Krizanovich

"This act of blind tasting started the rumour that he was blind (he wasn’t)"