FOOD+DRINK

Recipes, reviews, farms and tables

Poor choice | Stark, Broadstairs

"It’s all rather depressing, the despondent cries scratched into the bowl like some end-of-meal plea for help. Is the chef okay? Should I call the Samaritans or his sponsor? What’s happening? I don’t understand"

The proof in the puddings | CODA Dessert Dining, Berlin

by David J Constable

"CODA, however, isn’t a rejection of the pseudo snobbery of fine dining, but a diversion from the traditional, tiresome, rolled-out understanding of a savoury-sweet tasting menu."

Effervesce sense | Karen Krizanovich on midsummer sparklers

by Karen Krizanovich

"While I prefer sparkling - as PeeWee Herman once said, “All my friends have big buts" - The Grange’s Still Pink 2022 is my big but"

Head of the table | The Chairman, Hong Kong

by David J Constable

"Chinese food in Britain was the first popular takeout. Although, these were mostly Cantonese dishes adapted to British tastes, a sort of Chinese-ish and cross-cultural melange"

Abou El Sid, Cairo

by David J Constable

"The Grand Marquis wine, though, was a disaster. A blend of Sultanine Blanche and Chardonnay, it might have just as well been camel piss and sand"

A zed, two noughts, and more | Zooba, Cairo

by David J Constable

"I discovered that koshari might have been invented by French settlers in the 19th century as a veggie dish called couches de riz. Other outlets even have the gall to blame the British"

David J Constable on Venissa, Venice

by David J Constable

"Venice is also a flirty temptress to the solo idler, the wandering daydreamer and the inquisitive traveller"

Casa Maria Luigia, Modena | Dear Jessica…

by David J Constable

"I can’t think of anything more personal and amorous than being cooked breakfast by someone in the Italian countryside; being poured steaming coffee from the mocha pot as plates of smoked cotechino sausage with zabaione and freshly-baked cookies arrive"

My father, Marilyn Monroe and Dom Perignon

by Karen Krizanovich

"This act of blind tasting started the rumour that he was blind (he wasn’t)"

All going south | Sorn, Bangkok

by David J Constable

"I could see into the kitchen, where militant staff stood behind large, fire-scorched clay vessels filled with rice, stirring"

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