Recipes, reviews, farms and tables
"I could see into the kitchen, where militant staff stood behind large, fire-scorched clay vessels filled with rice, stirring"
"to season food with native saltbush and pepperberry is not exotic for people who have lived off the land for unnumbered centuries"
"Virgilio quite literally cooks Peru. He does not import or imitate. He creates"
"It’s the FOMO champer for your hamper and I can’t believe I wrote that"
"I suppose there is the coca plant, its leaves stripped to produce cocaine, but even coke is mixed with corn-starch these days, or so I am told"
"African cooking and African cuisine is… well, it’s nothing. It doesn’t exist."
"Brexit stopped any dreamy fantasy of setting up a life there. And don’t get me started on that"
"Real life intruded in 1975 when the IRA bombed this swank symbol of the establishment, killing one diner and injuring 15 others"
"This place might have a past in pints and pickles, but the restaurant knows precisely what it wants to be today. There’s no flirting with pub snacks here"
"I did a fashion shoot at the Lexington Street Chipperfield space. Every surface and frosted glass corridor was sleek and lovely"