Recipes, reviews, farms and tables
"I won’t bang on about anchovies now, it isn’t the place, but I’m a fanatic for them"
"Yes, gimmee some of that carbohydrate overload, rivers of vegetable oil and gloopy cheesy-bean combos"
"This summer, I popped into The Bloomsbury Hotel’s Coral Room to witness people so happy to be out of lockdown that the scene was literally Bacchanalia"
'The Green Star means, well, I don’t actually know. Who does? The whole eco-green thing is a mainstream perversion right now'
"Most new restaurants desperately fashion social media-friendly dishes but Brutto eschews such frippery"
"Mum sighs a defeatist sigh, the bread having caught up with her. Instead, she sneaks the choccy orb into her handbag for later"
"Back then, it was a riotous and unlawful place, a lethal cocktail of soldiers, sailors, whores and booze"
"How best to define this restaurant? Don’t bother"
"My hand went to the wrong neck. The foil off, it was like breaking into an ISA for shits and giggles"
Karen Krizanovich on the big ol' Bollinger R.D. 2007. "Don’t say legend. The word is a cliche now, used for any old acquaintance or, points for maximum irritation, horse"
