Recipes, reviews, farms and tables
“…even if you think you know that Barolo smells of roses and tar, or Chablis tastes like it has trickled through ancient oyster beds, great bottles always have an originality that begs the question: how can this be made just from grapes?”
"That was back when you called everything champagne. That was wrong, as we know now that 'it’s only quarantine if it’s from the quarantine region of France. Otherwise, it’s just sparkling isolation'."
"I once threw a loaded flute over my shoulder in disgust because the champagne in it was terrible"
"This is a region that prides itself on this unique breed of cow, renowned for their muscular hypertrophy, commonly known as double muscling"
"And so they do. So they must. Picking, plucking, pulling, wading the waters and even diving for ingredients have become necessary, as and when the tides permit"
"Hand-harvested, bottled at the vineyard, I was waiting for her to tell me no grapes had been harmed'
"Not another contemporary twist promise, another twiddly-accented, jus-dribbling, foam-flicking chef"
"Spoots - you've heard of them, right? Don't lie, you haven't"
"In short, it’s a hallowed place of wine, money, style and history because we know those things don't always hang out together"
"The locals say that Rolle is 'a postcard from God' to show you what it’s like in heaven"
