Recipes, reviews, farms and tables
'The Green Star means, well, I don’t actually know. Who does? The whole eco-green thing is a mainstream perversion right now'
"Most new restaurants desperately fashion social media-friendly dishes but Brutto eschews such frippery"
"Mum sighs a defeatist sigh, the bread having caught up with her. Instead, she sneaks the choccy orb into her handbag for later"
"Back then, it was a riotous and unlawful place, a lethal cocktail of soldiers, sailors, whores and booze"
"How best to define this restaurant? Don’t bother"
"My hand went to the wrong neck. The foil off, it was like breaking into an ISA for shits and giggles"
Karen Krizanovich on the big ol' Bollinger R.D. 2007. "Don’t say legend. The word is a cliche now, used for any old acquaintance or, points for maximum irritation, horse"
"For such a new and advanced city, Dubai’s culinary offering remains sluggish; a decade-or more behind others. It’s skyscraper dining, bottomless brunches and sushi by the pool"
"It’s silly, I know, but love is silly"
"When you see a bottle marked Cap Classique, buy it… Drink it alone - you know I often do - or with people. Drink it crying, laughing or feeling totally numb"
