Effervesce Sense | High tea high and a bottomless widow

Bottomless champagne is rarely seen this side of one’s first wedding when daddy is paying. But a unicorn exists at the Intercontinental Park Lane.  Inside the brutalist beauty of 145 Piccadilly – the site of Queen Elizabeth II’s former childhood home – you can find the finest afternoon tea known to humanity. Served in the Wellington Lounge, named after Wellington Arch, the room also has a good view of Apsley House, the Duke of Wellington’s Georgian residence once known by the grand address of ‘Number 1 London’. And it is here you get the rarest feeling in London – the sense of not being a tourist. This is the realm of Mayfair’s cognoscenti, the discreet spot of those who know everyone, have tried everything and have been everywhere. They come here.

I rarely enjoy tea and previous high teas have been Bataan Death Marches of cake, bread and pots of stomach-churning leaves-in-water

One of only six champagne houses with a royal warrant, Veuve Clicquot is offered, both brut and rosé NV which are crisp and uplifting for a pre-tea refresher.  Signature blend Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label Brut is made from up to 45% reserve wines, some aged 30 years. Produced from 50 to 60 crus, the Veuve Clicquot Rosé takes its lead from the Yellow Label adding a touch of Pinot Noir. (If you fancy vintage champagne, the hotel’s live jazz nights – Veuve and Vol Au Vents – feature Veuve Clicquot La Grand Dame 2015. This is unconnected with the afternoon tea and needs to be booked separately at The Arch bar so don’t be silly.)

For tea lovers, there is an overwhelming selection of teas from Elizabeth I’s favourite supplier, the East India Company. I rarely enjoy tea and previous high teas have been Bataan Death Marches of cake, bread and pots of stomach-churning leaves-in-water.

This was not that.

What I experienced in the Wellington Lounge was a very thoughtfully crafted homage to Elizabeth I and Elizabeth II, details that matter from the Clicquot-branded champagne stems to the Wedgewood tea service. The day’s first Veuve sabraged, with Frederico expertly swording the bottle, a pristine cloth catching severed glass neck, wire muselet, cork and cap.

So champagne yes, but yes food. An eye-popping British rhubarb syllabub perched on a sablé biscuit appeared – a bright red cube in an edible gold crown, the whole of which I ate. Exmoor caviar, Scottish smoked salmon, dill cream cheese served on round turmeric bread, tiny violet-topped mushy pea Yorkshire pudding and delectable sultana-free coronation chicken (as served at Elizabeth II’s 1953 coronation luncheon) lead to the tenderest scones, intense plum chocolate cake, a very lemony drizzle cake and more. The staff – manager Jordan, Jalia, Frederico, Jose and Franklyn – could not have been more gracious or genuine. Forgetting a pair of Cutler & Gross prompted a return which lead to a seat at The Arch bar, trying to guess which royals matched which drinks on the House of Windsor Cocktail Collection. Sipping A Love Affair – – a Camilla-inspired cocktail maybe? – a mix of Wrecking Coast Clotted Cream Gin, red wine, strawberry-lemon essence, soda watered wine swirling around a berg of crystal clear ice – I watched the Mayfair sun slid down the back of a crisp spring day.

There was serious tasting to be done with Richard Bampfield MW and Kathrine Larsen-Robert MS, at a tasting session which posed the question: do you taste like a master of wine or a master sommelier? In the packed lower ground floor of 67 Pall Mall, the wine lovers’ club, we learned how sommeliers communicate the qualities of specific wines to clients, using expressive but easily understandable language – while the master of wine might use similar but slightly different descriptive language for the same wine. I erred on the latter but learned a lot from this particular gathering of the serious winies.

Graham Beck Ultra Brut 2017

Fresh from three WSET champagne sessions – Grand Marques, Growers and Rosés – my tastebuds seem to have woken up with more to say. But even they couldn’t believe that Gusbourne Brut Reserve 2020 was an English Sparkling Wine not a champagne. From its refined nose to the brioche notes and fine bubbles, it had me convinced it is French. Alongside a bottle of the succulent Gusbourne Rosé 2019 (as served at Arlington) and a rare bright citrus Gusbourne Blanc de Blancs 2017 (as served at the star-studded reception of the 2025 Critics Circle Film Awards at the May Fair Hotel), I’m constantly amazed at the sheer quality of English Sparkling Wine overall and especially Gusbourne. The tip these days is to go for a good vintage and don’t skimp on price. That said, Gusbourne Brut Reserve 2020 deserves its status as a classic bottle. Kudos too to the vineyard for sending out native British wildflower seeds in a handy, compostable business card.

You may have seen Graham Beck at M&S and wondered if you should try it. This large Cap Classique producer is doing wonders for the brand worldwide. But if you are unsure whether Cap Classique is for you – although it will be – do not miss the latest release of Graham Beck Ultra Brut 2017. Previously named Brut Zero, the 2.4g/l dosage produces a delicious ultra-dry blend of 67% Chardonnay and 33% Pinot Noir from Robertson, South Africa. Hand-selected and harvested grapes grown on limestone soil, it has a low pH but high natural acidity. Expect lemon zest and brioche notes but for sheer vibrancy, this Cap Classique is a true delight – a versatile, enjoyable sparkling that needs to be tasted.

My predilection for Greek sparkling wine has found some new loves. Of course, there is the favourite Domaine Karanika with their Brut Cuvée Speciale Xinomavro, a sparkling wine of 11.5% alcohol and a fresh, zippy citrus taste that is really moreish. Domaine Karanika Brut Rosé Xinomavro 2022 is fresh, yes, but also dazzling with bright red fruit with beautifully balanced pear and strawberry notes. Mylonas Winery, new to me, produces Mylonas PetNat Savatiano 2023. This is a historical white grape variety planted very widely throughout Greece – and also the one traditionally used for retsina (if you have ever had good retsina, you’ll know it is something special). Of late, this grape has been shaped to a new purpose for modern wine and is exactly the kind of wine I like to taste, a fresh, apple-y, stone fruity sparkler with an intriguing hint of herb and a slightly fuller texture. Even if you don’t know PetNat or Savatiano, new combinations like this can make extraordinary sparklers.

As well as constantly checking the sparkling and champagnes offered BTG at various watering holes like Arlington, Grasso, Devonshire, etc, I am also hosting a sparkling wine tasting at members’ club Mortimer House the first Tuesday of March featuring Italian sparkling wines and Champagnes from the Mortimer House Kitchen bar. Join if you can. C